Help! My Tractor Won’t Start!
You’ve been out using your tractor and all of a sudden it won’t start. Or you parked your tractor, went away for a while and came back to a tractor that wouldn’t start. What’s going on?
Well, there could be a problem with a safety switch.
First Safety Switch is Under Your Seat
Here’s the tractor seat safety switch.
There are four safety switches on most tractor, but it’s really pretty easy to quickly figure out if one of them could be causing the problem.
Let’s get to the first one: it’s right underneath your bottom, in the seat. A lot of newer tractors have the switch build right into the seat itself. But with most older tractors you’ll have to flip the seat forward to locate the safety switch and here’s what it looks like. It’s just a little button on/off switch underneath the seat, and it tells the tractor if you’ve fallen off, leaving the seat empty. In that case, it would kill the tractor so it wouldn’t run over you.
Now, if you’ve got something stowed in back of the seat and you’re bouncing up and down across the field, the stowed item may have fallen down. If it’s in a position that keeps the seat from going all the way down on the switch even when you’re settled in to drive, the tractor isn’t going to start.
The Other Three Switches are Under the Tractor
The other three safety switches are underneath the tractor. To access these, start by putting the tractor on dead level ground, with chock blocks under the wheels. Take the keys out of the ignition, and then get a buddy to assist you.
You want your buddy to sit in the seat of the tractor, because he’s going to be moving some levers to help you figure out where those safety switches are.
We’re looking for things like a stick wedged up in there or some debris that jamming the switching mechanism. This is especially likely if you’ve been out brush hogging. Of course, things might just be out of adjustment, and you may be able to see that once you start testing the switches.
First, The PTO (power take-off) Switch
Here’s the PTO safety switch under the tractor.
Have your buddy move PTO engagement lever back and forward so you can find the place where the switch is mounted on a bracket under the tractor. Watch out for getting your fingers pinched as we works the lever!
If the power take-off is toggled on, it won’t let the tractor start. That’s what keeps the power take-off from running while you’re off the tractor. Once you find the switch, you’ll be able see if there’s something wedged in there that’s keep the tractor from starting.
Next, The Transmission Engagement Switch
Here’s the transmission safety switch.
There’s several possibilities here. If you have a gear drive transmission, the switch could be on the shuttle lever, on the range lever, or under the gear lever. Have your buddy move all those levers and levers watch where they go. Somewhere in there is a safety switch.
On a hydrostatic trans, there’s only one lever, and the tractor all will only start in neutral. Many tractors have the switch mounted inside the transmission. Here’s what it looks like. If there’s something like debris or a stick that’s jiggled one or both of these wires off the switch, the tractor won’t start.
And the Brake Safety Switch
Here’s the emergency brake safety switch.
Your tractor has to have the emergency brakes set in order for you to get off without the chance of your machine rolling over you.
Have your buddy push down on the brake and engage the emergency brake. You’ll find out where that safety switch is, and it’s possible that’s your problem.
I’m going to post future videos going in-depth about each of these safety switches, so maybe we can help you get your tractor going again without having to take it to a dealer.
Good timing on this topic Mike. I am three days into owning a year 2000 L3010 Kubota. HST. I committed the cardinal sin of stopping the tractor engine with transmission in “L” gear(just like every standard shift car . Now the gear selector won’t go to neutral. So the neutral switch isn’t depressed. And the engine won’t start. Now what?
Do I force it?
The web can be a great tool of course and…. There is a recommendation out there that I trace the linkage into the gearbox, and “help” the gearbox movement at the point it enters the gearbox. It was claimed by a few owners that the linkage isn’t powerful enough to pull out of “L” when engine is stopped. This is more of a gearbox subject I suppose.
I called my Kabota dealer. They are seeking advice from an expert there.
Yep. Linkage was the problem for me. Just played with the linkage until it slipped into neutral, no force needed.
cheers,
Frank.
L 110 John deere won’t crank but I can jump the solenoid and it will start and run.
Hello Mike,
I have a very confusing problem on a TC40 NH, this problem has been on and off never know when ot will happen or for how long.
At times I can start it, other times it won’t start at all. On a day when it seems to start it will run for a while, it seems as if I’m working it the engine (loading/blading)
the engine will cut out, sometimes it will just lose a little power and other yimes stay running sometimes it just dies, usually I’m able to restart it right away. after it has stopped running a few times, it just gets to a point and it will not start again.
I can wait an hour or 2 weeks and it will start again, until it seems to want to die, I have noticed if I put my foot on the cluch/ brake and kinda baby it I can keep it running so I can usually get it back to a safe location near my shop. I have checked my safety switches and seem to be OK. because the tractor will start at times, and at other times it won’t. currently it will not start.
anything I’m not doing or I should try?
Terry,
Sounds like floating gunk in the fuel tank. I’ve had the same issue. Here’s a video: https://youtu.be/0ByGHJn-uEw.
Good luck!
-Mike
I have known these erratic and inconsistant symptoms to be caused by trash, ethanol crud, leaves, etc., anywhere in the fuel systen (tank, lines, filters, or carb/injector). Debris gets sucked up against “whatever” until it partially or totally interrupts fuel flow. Then, with the engine not running, that debris clog might fall away from “whatever” it clogged until the “whatever” is partially or totally un-clogged, since there is no longer suction to pull it toward the engine; thus allowing the engine to start and run again. The clog could be at the tank outlet, the upstream end of a filter, the carb inlet port, or any spot in the lines, especially at a sharp bend. Ethanol crud can be like slime or like oatmeal and can form anywhere in the fuel system. The same symptoms can also be caused by a clogged gas cap vent hole. If the hole is plugged, air cannot enter the tank (assuming the cap itself seals well). Gas flow will eventually stop, or nearly so, and the engine starves for fuel. While the mower is sitting and not running, air will slowly leak into the tank, past the clogged vent hole or when the cap is removed, so that gas can flow out of the tank again, and the engine will run, at least for a while.
Tractor starts but when shift to go forward or back it shuts down.
Sounds like a safety switch issue to me. Probably the operator presence one under the seat. Good luck!
Hi Mike… I was driving my LSMT 125 tractor and Stood up before turning the tractor and the PTO off. Now my tractor won’t start. Checked all the safety switches. Question is, i’m not really sure how to analyze what I’m looking at. I know when you’re sitting on the seat the safety switch is pressed in. Should the safety switches on the other components be up in order for the tractor to start or should they be pressed in. It’s probably makes no sense and I apologize.
Larry,
Sorry for the slow response, I don’t check messages here much. You’ve probably already figured this out, but did you turn your PTO off? Most tractors won’t start with the PTO on.
Most safety switches have to be pushed in to function, they come in a variety of designs. Usually if you look at the lever that controls the function, you’ll see it, but if PTO is engaged with a switch it could be part of that mechanism.
You might reply to
mi**@as************.com
and I’ll get back with you faster.
-Mike
Larry:
You got it goin on my friend. With your help I found all the safety switches on my NH Workmaster 45. NH did this tractor a huge injustice in that the wiring and conduit to the mentioned switches is sub standard. Again thank you
Ed Neville
kubota 2320 starts but stalls when put into gear
Great Video Mike,
I am working on a Kubota MX 5400 that was taken off a trailer by operator and rolled off in neutral without engine running. After off trailer tried to start it and it will not start. I checked seat safety switch by jumping and still no luck. I have not checked the other switches mentioned as of yet. I just find it odd that this happened as it did. Tractor was running when placed on trailer,
Is there a a switch connection or starter safety switch under the hydrostatic foot pedal on the kubota l 4760.
Does the switch sometimes stick disallowing the tractor to start?
How can i best access this switch?
Mike, I don’t know, I’ve not had any experience with that model but you can look up every part on that tractor at Kubota’s website here: https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/. Just hit “View Illustrated Parts”, accept their terms and conditions, and enter your model number and you can see every part on your tractor. That should help you identify each safety switch and determine which one is causing the issue. Good luck!
-Mike
I have a TC 45A New Holland tractor. sometimes it will start. sometimes it won’t. I bypassed all the relays I change starters. I changed key switches. I changed all the relays if you pull the cover off the neutral start relay and squeeze the relay, it will start
Toby, I sent your question to my service manager from the dealership where I used to work and here is his reply:
You would need to check to see if the relay is getting its signal through the wire. If it is, does it have ground to that relay? Also, the wire terminals in the relay base could be loose.
Good luck!
-Tractor Mike
Tractor Mike
my CASE MXT 570 skip loader won’t start. I changed all the filters including the solenoid thinking it was a fuel problem.
Fueltank full. ID # 0300 433. Can you help me?
It’s hard to diagnose without more information. If it’s not getting fuel you might try this: https://youtu.be/0ByGHJn-uEw.
I have a 2005 New Holland TC30 that will not turn over. I have checked continuity on the seat switch, brake switch, and both switches on the lower side of the crank case and all of them with near zero ohm values. I replaced the safety relay as well as have a new battery. All fuses are good and not blown and verified thru ohmmeter. I can remove the plug on the safety relay and jump the red/black connection with white wire connection and it will turn over that way but not with it connected? How do I determine if the safety controller is bad?
I ran this issue by my old service manager at the dealership where I used to work and here is his response:
There is a test procedure for the controller that shows the in and out signals for the wiring that his local New Holland dealer should be able to access. They may need a serial number to make sure they get the correct test.
Good luck!
L3600 moving mulch from fire mitigation. Engine quit. Replaced battery with bad cell. Rear PTO switch engaged by accident. No starter. Corrected and normal start. After start, no hydraulics. Fluid was replaced earlier this summer in normal maintenance. How do I get my hydraulics back? Thanks
Randy,
I don’t know, there’s not enough information there to tell what’s going on. Those problems wouldn’t appear to be interconnected. Good luck!
-Mike
have a new holland TC25 that would not crank and thought it was a bad neutral safety switch
tested safety switches which were ok…then thought starter relay might be bad..finally found out where starter relay was…I
had to remove dash cowling and found relay near right side of gas tank…pushed on relay and voila engine cranked
it somehow vibrated loose
I recently had my John Deere 5103 just die as if I turned the switch off. This occurred soon after I engaged my pro lever. I checked the fuses, and there was a 30 amp key switch fuse that had blown. After a few days of sitting I replaced the fuse and tractor started right up but as soon as I engaged the pto lever and started mowing the fuse blew again. Could a bad pto switch cause a fuse to blow? What else should I check out?
Pat,
Sounds like a dead short somewhere in the system. I’m not thinking it’s the switch but I guess that’s possible. I’d get a MultiMeter and start tracing the wires on the PTO and work out. If you Google “Deere 5103 blowing fuses” you’ll find some forums that might be helpful. I did a quick glance and didn’t see one that related directly to your issue, but a deep dive might hit pay dirt. Good luck!
-Mike
I have a 1977 MF 245 tractor some times it will start up & other times it won’t. I’ve been told it may be my safety switch. Is the safety switch located at the back of the engine on the transmission case right underneath the battery?
William, I’ve never worked on a 245 so I don’t know. You can look up every part on that tractor by going to AGCO’s parts website here: https://parts.agcocorp.com/. Choose your country and hit “Shop by Machine”.and enter your model number and you can see all of the parts that are on it. Sometimes it helps to see all of the diagrams before trying to troubleshoot a problem like you have. Hopefully that helps you locate the culprit. Good luck! -Mike Wiles
Hi have TC30 that shut down while I was mowing, it has dash lights, head lights, but no warning beeps when you turn the key, no clicks that you would normally hear prior to starting the tractor, just dead. Did a bypass on each safety switch, checked fuses, even changed the Safety Controller, the key switch seems to check out. I’m at a loss at this point relays possibly?
Robert, if you were mowing brush, it probably yanked a wire out somewhere. Sometimes those are hard to find. You can look up every part on that tractor at New Holland’s website here: https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/newhollandag/. Just enter your model number where it says “Search Parts Catalogue” and navigate to the section you need. Sometimes it helps to see a diagram of what’s inside to help find the issue. Good luck!
I have a New Holland Power 75 and ran into problem of won’t start! I’m not sure what trips the safety switch but seem like it resets after a period of time!
The seat does not fold up so I can’t find the switch!
I also can’t get the airride seat to inflate
You can look up every part on that tractor at New Holland’s website here: https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/newhollandag/. Just enter your model number where it says “Search Parts Catalogue” and navigate to the section you need. Sometimes it helps to see a diagram of what’s inside before you start taking things apart. Hope that helps. Good luck!
I have a old model John Deere tractor 300cx everythings fine except the bucket won’t lift I mean it won’t go up or down is there a switch that control the up and down on my tractor
John, first, the 300CX is the model number of the front end loader. The tractor model number will be on the hood. To my knowledge, there is no on/off switch for the loader. Most of the time when something like that happens it’s a hose unplugged: https://youtu.be/iQUSlWfQk7U. If the tilt and curl works and the raise and lower doesn’t, that’s probably what’s going on. If that’s not it, it could be something simple like a clogged hydraulic filter, or something worse like a bad hydraulic pump or a broken joystick. If the three point works you can rule out a lot of issues like the filter or the failed pump. At that point it’s probably a joystick issue. Here’s a video about joysticks: https://youtu.be/vXMtIxWEPak. Here’s one on the basics of hydraulics: https://youtu.be/NnMQEXzm-ic. Good luck!